FROM GRANDMA’S BISCUIT TINS TO THE HEART OF THE FOREST: VERONICA SANTAMARIA AND TEXTILES AS LIVING BONDS. WINNER OF THE 2025 DOROTHY WAXMAN PRIZE
| by Susanna Cati |
Founded in 2015 through the initiative of Lidewij Edelkoort, Willem Schenk, and Philip Fimmano, the New York Textile Month has grown to establish itself as a global benchmark for textile thought, intertwining creative research, cultural engagement, and material innovation. Over the past five years, under the direction of Ragna Fróðadóttir, the festival has expanded its vision and strengthened its role in the international debate on the future of textiles, fostering dialogue across disciplines, generations, and cultures.
The New York Textile Month is not only a celebration but also a concrete opportunity to give voice and visibility to experimental projects and unprecedented forms of expression capable of redefining the identity of textiles in the contemporary world. Among the most anticipated events of New York Textile Month, the Dorothy Waxman Prize stands out as a prestigious accolade dedicated to emerging talents in textile innovation. The prize is part of the most authoritative and dynamic international platform for students devoted to experimentation and the promotion of contemporary textile design and this year proudly celebrates the eleventh anniversary of its founding.
The Dorothy Waxman International Textile Design Prize celebrates one of the most visionary figures in the contemporary textile landscape — the woman who played a crucial role in launching Trend Union and Edelkoort Inc. in the United States. A key reference in the field, Dorothy Waxman has been a pioneer in textile communication through seminal publications such as View on Colour, Textile View, and Viewpoint, distinguishing herself with a sharp eye constantly attuned to the avant-garde.
A passionate connoisseur of materials, with a unique sensitivity to color, texture, and innovation, Waxman has significantly contributed to shaping the contemporary textile aesthetic. Her insights and unwavering commitment have left an indelible mark on the industry, inspiring new generations of designers and textile professionals to look toward the future with both critical awareness and creative vision.
From the very beginning, she stood out for her ability to bridge diverse creative worlds, fostering encounters between American fashion and European textile excellence. During her work with the Fashion Group, she played a key role in introducing American fashion to European textile producers, consolidating international collaborations fundamental to the development of global design.
The Dorothy Waxman Prize is part of Talking Textiles, an international platform that promotes textile education and supports emerging creativity worldwide. This year’s competition received an impressive 330 applications from over 100 schools around the world. After a rigorous pre-selection phase conducted by Lelia Bachi, Amirtha Arasu, and Ragna Fróðadóttir, 24 finalists were selected. These students presented their projects online to a high-profile jury in early September, during New York Textile Month, as part of the annual Talking Textiles conference.
The 2025 jury was composed of leading figures from the textile industry: Liz Collins, artist and textile designer; Royce Epstein, Senior Director of Design Insights at Mohawk Group; Li Edelkoort and Philip Fimmano of Trend Union; and Dorothy Waxman herself, the textile icon after whom the prize is named. Many of the projects emphasized the use of natural and Indigenous materials, celebrating craftsmanship and reflecting on making as an authentic response to our human condition in an era marked by multiple global crises.
Taken together, these projects outline a new vision for the future of textiles — a future that promotes reconnection between humanity, nature, and human relationships. The $5,000 prize, offered by Mohawk Group, was awarded to the overall winner, accompanied by three Honorable Mentions (…) the article continues in ATLAS – CHAPTER ZERO, available for purchase HERE.
